Tuesday, 3 May 2016
How does the PR affect the fashion journalist?
Journalism, particularly in recent years, has often been criticised for processing and rephrasing - if at all - the words of PRs. A study conducted in 2011 by Oriella PR Network found that 62% of 478 journalists turned to PRs for stories, as they saw them as important sources. Does this suggest that PRs have control over journalists?
Fashion journalism is rather infamous for recycling press releases, which has led to the profession sometimes being disregarded by fellow journalists. PRs are said to prefer to send copy and samples to fashion publications because they know they rely on such 'gifts' for content. It is true that editors possess some degree of control over what goes in their publications, but the need for money - for example, from advertising - plays a significant role. Fashion journalists cannot ignore the PR.
Bredemeier, in a paper analysing the relationship between fashion newspapers and public relations, wrote that "fashion journalism is journalism in name only”. In some ways, this is true. Elizabeth Walker, who was Marie Claire's executive Fashion and Beauty editor, admitted in a book about fashion journalism, that the influence of advertisers was getting stronger. Some brands even threaten to terminate their advertising contracts if they are not mentioned, which makes it harder for a fashion journalist to fulfil their ethical duty.
The bias of advertising isn't an unknown issue. Journalism and PR share a complicated relationship, because advertising is the main source of income, and without it, magazines would have to double their cover prices to make a profit. The two practices are somewhat reliant on each other - the PR helps the journalist obtain material and the journalist helps the PR's clients get coverage. Despite this, many fashion journalists are still allowing PRs to influence their writing. When will this stop?
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